I mentioned a while back that the radiator mounting tabs would need to be moved. Well the wiring has been confirmed to start and run with no check engine lights, but I wasn’t able to run for more than a brief moment with out cooling hooked up, so time to move some tabs. If the drill in the lead shot looks shiny and new its because it is. I couldn’t get anything else I already owned into position to drill the spot welds out. At least not with out pulling the engine. The new Makita purchase was a no brainer so to speak.
The actual process of moving the tabs is pretty straight forward. Center punch the spot welds, then drill them with a spot weld cutter, or broach style cutter if the spot weld one doesn’t fit.
Just be careful not to drill all the way through both layers. It’s easier to control with the spot weld cutter than the broach style and as you can see I went all the way through on my first hole with the new drill.
I had previously marked the radiator tab location, but if you haven’t now would be the time to set it in place and line it up to mark the new tab location. I had to trim one tab to clear an existing captive nut, but otherwise I was able to clean up the mounting surface and tack them into place.
I actually tacked them with the TIG, but quickly figured out this was a job for the MIG!
I dressed the welds a little bit with a finger belt sander. (Mine is an older CP version but I imagine the Astro version is probably pretty good. I finished things off with some Duplicolor bed liner. It always does a great job of hiding minor imperfections, and drying quickly.
Before I could mount the radiator I had to address the fact that Toyota changed one mount point of one fan between the SV10 and SV20 models. I used some 1″ strap scraps and a captive nut to make the fan work.